Peperomia Variegated

Peperomia Plant Care

The Peperomia plant is a smart choice for beginner houseplant enthusiasts. Not only are they forgiving plants that tolerate some benign neglect, but also the spectacular variety of colors and textures available within the species means that you can amass an interesting collection of plants for every style and space, all of which require the same care.

Plant Peperomia in a pot with ample drainage holes, using an orchid potting mix, then place the plant in bright indirect light. Peperomia plants require little in the way of attention. You only need to water them when the soil is dry. Plant food or fertilizer is rarely necessary.

Light

Peperomia plants need medium to bright light to maintain their vibrant foliage colors. Insufficient light will result in fewer leaves, leaf drop, and drab coloration. Direct sun rays should be avoided, as they can burn the leaves.

Soil

Many Peperomia plant species grow as epiphytes, which means in the wild, they might settle into the nook of a tree and send their roots into some slightly decaying bark. The key to a thriving Peperomia is choosing a soil blend that mimics these conditions—chunky, loose, and acidic. An orchid potting medium typically works well, but regular potting soil is fine too. You can always lighten it with a handful of peat moss or vermiculite.

Water

The Peperomia has succulent leaves that indicate that these plants don’t need frequent watering to maintain vigor. Allow the surface of the soil to dry out between waterings. Keeping the peperomia on the dry side is better than saturating it. Soggy soil can lead to root rot.1

Temperature and Humidity

Outdoors, Peperomia plants are hardy to USDA zone 10, so they cannot handle freezing temperatures. As tropical plants, peperomia plants prefer a warm and steamy environment, especially in the summer months when their growth is most active. If your plant doesn’t get an outdoor vacation in the summer, place it on a tray of pebbles and water to increase ambient humidity, or invest in a small-scale humidifier to place nearby.

Fertilizer

When it comes to fertilizing peperomia plants, less is more. As a slow-growing epiphyte, the peperomia can go its entire life without supplemental fertilizer, getting what it needs from its planting media.

Types of Peperomia

There are hundreds of different varieties of Peperomia plants, many of which make exceptional houseplants. Some of the most popular varietals include:

• P. verticillata ‘Belly Button’: An eye-catching varietal with a compact form and tiny leaves, somewhat reminiscent of the baby tears plant
• P. metallica var. Colombiana: A dazzling, tri-colored plant with foliage of bronze, silver, and red
• P. nitida (cupid Peperomia): A varietal that’s ideal for hanging baskets, complete with heart-shaped leaves edged in cream
• P. perciliata: A trailing varietal that has a tight growth habit and produces oval-shaped foliage and red stems
• P. caperata ‘Suzanne’: A unique plant with deeply ridged foliage and silver accents

Pruning

Lightly prune Peperomia plants in the early spring to correct any leggy, sparse growth. Pinching back the stems will help maximize the plant’s lush appearance by encouraging more branching. Remove the end of each stem and the first set of leaves; you can pinch them off with your fingers or snip them off with hand pruners.

Propagating Peperomia Plants

Peperomia plants can be propagated at any time, although springtime is when its growth is more active and likely the best time. If you’re already planning to prune your plants in the spring, you can take a stem’s extra leggy growth and easily propagate from that stem cutting. Here’s how:

1. First, you’ll need sterile pruning snips or scissors, a small pot, potting soil or orchid mix, plastic wrap, and a brightly lit location.
2. Cut off a leaf including at least an inch of its stem from the mother plant.
3. Place the cutting in a small container filled with potting soil, cut-end down. Place it in a bright spot with a lot of indirect light. Cover with plastic wrap to create a mini-greenhouse environment to help it retain moisture.
4. Water consistently and never let the soil dry out. Roots will form within a few weeks; then, you can transplant your cutting into a larger container once it outgrows its original one.

How to Grow Peperomia From Seed

To grow Peperomia from seed, you’ll need a soilless seed starting mix, sufficient water, and a warm, bright sunny spot to germinate peperomia seeds. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs. Transplant the young seedlings into a container, and place the plant in a bright spot with indirect sun.

Potting and Repotting Peperomia Plants

Peperomia plants can live for years in a relatively small container. They enjoy a somewhat root-bound existence, and this, combined with their slow growth rate, means you can leave them alone until you see roots coming out of the drainage holes. When necessary, re-pot your Peperomia into another container that is only a couple of inches bigger than its former home. Use an acidic potting mix or orchid bark.

Peperomia Blooms

Peperomia rarely flower when kept as houseplants, but they occasionally do. Their unscented blooms appear as spindly spikes of brown and greenish-white. They don’t look like flowers; you might even think they’re offshoots, detracting from the look of the plant. You can cut them at the base of the shoot or leave them to fall off once the flower withers naturally.

Common Pests

Peperomia plants are subject to common pests that can affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, and whiteflies.1 Insecticidal soap is the easiest treatment for these pests.

Common Problems With Peperomia

Peperomia is a low-maintenance plant that doesn’t need much water. Once you’ve identified a bright but not direct sun location—and you remember to check the soil every once in a while—this slow-grower is not usually fussy. However, here are some signs that your plant might need some additional care.

Leaves Curling or Yellowing

In most cases, when Peperomia leaves turn yellow or start curling, it means it’s getting too much water. Remove the yellowed leaves.

Deformed Leaves

Ring spot may be diagnosed when you see deformed leaves. Pull off the deformed leaves, and see if the plant grows back healthy. If not, it’s best to toss the whole plant. The disease is spread by seemingly healthy plants that are actually infected.